November 11, 2025

Today is Remembrance Day. And what a day it will be!

I am cocooned safely in my room, but can hear the dribble of rain on the metal roof. There is a small leak over the left-hand side of the shelf that runs the length of my room, so I need to make sure that my things stay clear of that spot, but also to remain attentive to the possibility of other leaks appearing. Another downside of the place is that there isn’t really anywhere to hang things to dry, and given the ongoing downpours, this will be a problem. As always, my biggest concern regarding the rain is my hiking shoes — getting them soaked will degrade their ability to maintain proper shape, in particular, that of the insole.

Food is fortunately not a problem, as the stay here includes a dainty breakfast, which I can supplement with the groceries I bought yesterday evening in Ruifang. Looking momentarily out the window shows me a disturbing sight — it is raining torrentially and the wind blowing with some ferocity. The typhoon has closed in on Taiwan, and I will probably be forced to stay indoors for the day. Even under normal circumstances, there wouldn’t be much to do in this town, as it is entirely dedicated to servicing tourists, and the few restaurants within walking distance are outlandishly priced. I have bought food, but barely enough to tide me over in a raging typhoon.

I return to my room to write in my journal, the upside of not being able to venture outside, given the raging storm. I certainly have a tremendous amount of content to catch up on, so just need to be productive and quell my innate instinct to throw myself into the next adventure.

I repeatedly return to the front room and see no indication of the storm abating. Given the intensity of the weather and the fact that I am only supposed to stay here for a few days, my mind turns toward the effort to leave Jiufen for my next destination. If the weather prevails, I will have very serious problems, beginning with the high probability of getting all my things completely drenched.

The internet here is terrible. Is this a Taiwan-wide issue?

My self-discipline has been exhausted — I need to do something today that takes me away from my temporary home. The rain and wind are intense, but I can wear shorts, sandals, and a rain jacket, all of which will dry quickly when I return to the hostel. The challenge, however, will be my umbrella: given that the wind is fierce and continually changing direction, I will have to hold the umbrella close to me but continually reorient it to align with the shifting wind. I don’t intend on walking far, only into the core of town, which is a short walk away, then hopefully this area will also be relatively protected, given how the multi-level houses close in on the narrow alleys.

The initial portion of the walk takes me around a few unprotected curves in the road that under normal circumstances would be utterly scenic, but now — in the early afternoon — there is not only minimal visibility, give that the area is exposed to the maximum fury of the wind and rain. Of course, I had to take my camera along, although it could be just another episode of risking its untimely demise. There is simply no way I can take the camera out of my bag and shoot while attempting to keep my umbrella aloft without the camera getting soaked — but I can try! Not that there is much to take pictures of, either. Other than the wind, I have to dodge the occasional vehicle, and they are not particularly prone to paying attention to pedestrians on this road at the best of times.

Along the lower road there is somewhat of a junction point where the shops and restaurants coalesce and a long staircase leads past atmospheric, traditionally-styled tea shops where unwitting tourists can spend silly amounts of money to experience traditional tea ceremonies in what appear to be authentic settings. Given the howling wind and thundering rain, they also offer a perfect respite from the weather, but unfortunately I am not so easily lured into what are effectively overpriced tourist traps. The visitors unfortunate enough to have scheduled their vacation during a typhoon huddle in the shelter of whatever overhangs jut out from these teashops, presenting a sorry sight — although we are all in the same boat and need to make the best of our current situation.

At the top of the steps, I continue laterally along the upper roadway that weaves through Jiufen, the paved passage largely sheltered and lined with shops flogging every manner of snack, popular dried foodstuffs, souvenirs, and so on. The bulk of these establishments is understandably shuttered, but I can only imagine that of those that are open question the justification for doing so, given how few of rain cape-shrouded visitors stop to look at their wares. Even in these relatively sheltered passages, gusts of wind and rain hurtle through, making the entire experience largely regrettable.

Out in the open again, the wind frantically whips my umbrella to and fro; I clutch onto it, continually trying to prevent the canopy from being wrenched into an inverted position and risking destroying the umbrella. Thankfully, there are pauses in the rain, making progress a lot easier, particular in the unprotected portions of the roadway. In my attempt to explore the further reaches of town, I come upon a side passage that leads directly to my bed and breakfast — but not before the sole of one of my sandals becomes detached. Thankfully, I can borrow some of the cheap thongs from the accommodation, but my own Keen sandals that have stood by me on innumerable trips have now reached their end of life.

I continue trudging through the wind- and rain-soaked alleys, but there is little point in continuing, given the relentlessness of the storm. Returning to the bed and breakfast, I note that despite the rain cape, my clothes are soaked. Kleenex in my pocket? Gone. My camera and phone are wet — and I can’t believe they still work, given the amount of times they have gotten wet. My backpack is wet, but happily, the Ziploc baggies with my credit cards, passport, and cash are dry. My Taiwan Rough Guide got soaked.

Sigh. It was not an easy day today. Apparently, tomorrow will be a lot quieter, with 10% of the rain and far less wind, although it will pick up again the day after, when I have a long onward trip planned …